If you’re hiking the Continental Divide Trail southbound, Glacier National Park is your first stop and your first challenge. Between the melting snowpack, navigating permits, and simply starting a thru hike, it can make things unpredictable. But that’s half of the adventure of the CDT!
Knowing when to start
The average start date for SOBOs is June 15. This date, however, can fluctuate depending on the year’s snowpack and weather. Postholer is your best resource for understanding the current snowpack.
Waterton route or Chief Mountain route?
Though the Waterton route is the official CDT route, its high elevation often doesn’t allow SOBOs to traverse it. There are several late snow melts over high passes that make things difficult, or keep the trail closed until July. For reference, I started my 2025 thru hike on June 18. A group of hikers attempted the Waterton route but turned back due to impassible conditions, even equipped with ice axes and microspikes.
The Chief Mountain alternate is the standard SOBO route. The border agents will let you walk to the monument for your picture, and then you’re off! There are still passes at 7,000+ feet, meaning you’ll still need to watch the snow melt to know if you need an ice axe or not, but it’s much more manageable and melts faster than the other route.
Do I bring an ice axe?
My best advice? Watch the snow pack and make your decision a few days before coming to Glacier. You may end up not needing one at all. I had my C.A.M.P Corsa axe ready to go, but ended up not needing it a single time. Depending on how early you set out, you may also need micro spikes. I brought those to Glacier but also ended up not using them either in Glacier or in the Bob Marshall Wilderness.
How do I get to Glacier National Park?
There are several ways to get to Glacier:
- Fly into Kalispell International Airport and take the Amtrak to East Glacier. However, the train currently passes through Kalispell at 7 a.m., meaning that you’ll need to time your flight right OR stay a night in town.
- Fly into Kalispell and get a shuttle to your preferred location in Glacier National Park. It can be pricey but worth it if you split the cost with others. Popular places to go include Looking Glass (Luna’s) in East Glacier, Two Medicine (for quick access to the Two Medicine Permit Office) or St. Mary’s (for quick access to the St. Mary’s Permit Office).
- Take the Amtrak to East Glacier from your nearest Amtrak station. It could make for a long train ride but you don’t have to deal with the TSA or a shuttle, and immediately arrive in East Glacier.
- Have a trail angel, friend, or family member drive you there. If you find someone willing, this is the easiest.
Looking Glass (aka Luna’s) is pretty much the base for all things CDT thru hikers in Glacier. Send your resupply box here, and definitely stop by! All info can be found on FarOut or the Looking Glass Instagram page.
Getting CDT permits in Glacier National Park
There are three ways to get permits for Glacier: the advance lottery, reserving ahead of time, or walk ups.
- Advance lottery: By applying for the advance lottery, you have a chance at getting first pick at campsites and your preferred route. Cons: You have to apply for it in March, meaning you won’t know what the snowpack will be doing.
- General on-sale permits: After May 1, all permits not taken during the advance lottery open to the public. You may have a better idea of when you want to go and can grab some permits then. It may still be difficult to get it along the CDT in your preferred mileage. Also note that Recreation.gov caps you at 15 miles per day.
- Walk up permits: You can walk up to the wilderness permit office for permits the day of or day before. This means taking the permits that are available and basing your route on that; but it also means that you don’t have to worry about weather, snowpack, or other things delaying you if you’d already picked a different date.
Walk up permit tips
Be flexible; you may need to take front country sites in Many Glacier, St. Mary’s, or Two Medicine. There is a $16 shuttle that runs between Many Glacier and St. Mary’s; just ask at the desk if the official “hiker shuttle” isn’t running yet.
When you go to the permit office, make sure you have a map in front of you and multiple plans for how to get through the park. The rangers will also do their best to help you get through!
If you get short days when you wanted long ones, remember: you’re in Glacier National Park, one of the most scenic areas in the U.S.! Take your time and explore. Stop by Dawn Mist Falls, swim in the many lakes, enjoy the scenery. Or, as one friend put it, “think of it as forced injury prevention, keeping you from pushing too fast too soon.”
Enjoy your thru hike
After that, you’re home free! Hoist your pack, snap your picture, and head out. Your CDT adventure awaits!
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